This entry is not going to be very entertaining, but it will be loaded with information for my friends who are considering a move to Ecuador. Yes I have been a happy tourist while here, but I've done my research as well. I was tasked to find out all the particulars about this little happy country, the good and the bad if one was to move their home here. Here it comes boys and girls and just know that this is from the viewpoint of yours truly who does not put complete faith in most of what I do.
My time here has been spent mostly in a little town called Cotacachi. Sweet quiet town in a valley in the Andes consisting of about 9,000 people and 300 or so expats. Pretty good selection of anything you might need, but not much of what you might crave. There are a surprising number of pleasant restaurants for the size and bustle of the town, but that's it. Cotacachi could be one of those movie towns where the bad guys ride up the main street and all the inhabitants are behind there closed doors. In that movie, the good guys show up and it's gunfight at OK Corral. Well here, the bad guys just keep on riding through.
The past couple or three days I've been in Cuenca. A short plane ride from Cotacachi, but a world away. Cuenca is roughly at the same altitude as Cotacachi, but that's where the similarities end. 460,000 people and 3,000 expats do make this a bustling city but none of the ugly you'd associate with a big city. The place reminds so much of the towns in Italy that I visited with my son and his wife a few years ago. It has that same old world charm.
I found it a delightful city, full of very friendly Ecuadorians and happy, helpful, welcoming expats. The surrounding areas of the city are nicely developed with homes and apartments and condos and putting them there, they have protected the nature of the city. I believe if I were to relocate to Ecuador it would be in the vicinity of Cuenca.
Now comes the good part. The following is what I've gathered over the last two weeks. I've tried to break it down into sections. Needless to say this is an unscientific research so don't let me ever hear anyone say "well Joe said" when they discover it may be somewhat different.
Culture: Made up of the indigenous people who wear the colorful velvet skirts and Panama hats, descendants of the Spaniards who are responsible for the beautiful churches, a mix of the two and then a mixture of the rest of the world. Ecuador is a developing country.
Driving: Very much similar to Italy and Costa Rica. It's like entering a different personality when the Ecuadorian slides behind the wheel. That slow, easy pace suddenly steps on the accelerator and doesn't take it's foot off no matter what. Pedestrians don't have the right of way here either. Yes there are motor cycles, but they seem to obey the laws or are also afraid of the looming cars, trucks and buses. 75% of the expats do not have their own vehicle electing instead to use the excellent transportation system. Buses and taxis are well maintained and very cheap. Bus rides cost pennies and you can't pay more than $2.00 anywhere you go in the city.
Cleanliness: Cleaner than Grecia! Grecia known as the cleanest city in Central America loses to Cuenca and Cotacachi. It isn't a matter of how efficient the cleaning crews are, it's more the attitude of the population. They just don't drop anything on the ground.
Business hours: They take a two hour siesta here. Just not fair. Most places open at 8:30, but it is possible to find that early morning coffee.
Food: I think I ate in pretty much every restaurant in Cotacachi and a few of their little kiosks. I was amazed at the variety of restaurants in Cuenca. Please note that Cuenca is not another Escazu, Costa Rica. No one is trying to turn downtown into another USA main street. However, from German bakeries, darn good steaks, fast food places and good old mom and pop shops serving simple hardy food. There are a number of big grocery stores in Cuenca as opposed to the two little ones in Cotacachi. None of the stores looked like they catered to gringos, but they had excellent selections of non perishables and meat and fish. I did not see a stand alone butcher shop. The diet here is really high in carbs, the people favoring potatoes, cheese and corn. Cheesy potato cakes are great.
Climate: The climate of Cotacachi and Cuenca are very similar due to both being in valley at about 8,000 feet. I am visiting here in their rainy season. Warm sunshine in the morning, clouding up by noon and raining for an hour or two in the afternoon and then pretty cool in the late evening and night. I have worn a light jacket every day. One expat told me it can go as low as 40 degrees, but she has only seen that three times in the six years she's been living in Cuenca.
Stuff to do: Cotacachi has its big beautiful church and central park, its amazing five block long "Leather Street" which is world famous for its leather goods. I have fallen in love with leather since visiting and I will have a leather jacket if I move here. This street alone will cause the shopping woman cramps of craving. Lots of other things to see, but they are reached by bus, car or tour van. Cuenca has amazing restaurants, museums, concerts (mostly free), symphony (also free), many fantastic churches all in the European tradition, and double decker buses with their wide open second level. That bus is a hoot. There are more than a couple of malls as well. The expats schedule a lot of activities as well.
Money: They use the American Dollar in Ecuador. It was a little weird using that old currency and a bit different. A dollar coin is used a lot and there is a big fifty cent coin. If you are bringing cash with you, which I advise, bring lots of ones, fives and tens. Even the tens are difficult to use, no one has enough change. There are rumors that Ecuador will go to a different currency. Rumors. Also rumors of Ecuador reducing the imports from the US.
Political Climate: How do you forecast what the political future holds for Ecuador or for any other country? These are difficult times worldwide. President Correa has done an enormous amount of good for the country. Both the locals and the expats are very positive about him with only a few unhappy. He is working hard for the welfare of the people.
Housing: There are so many options for housing. Even in little Cotacachi there are apartment houses and casitas and farms all available for rent or to buy. I saw a beautiful apartment, secure, two bedroom, with a beautiful sun room and large living room with a very modern and functionable kitchen. All furnished with up scale furniture and appliances. $600 a month including fast internet, cable tv, rubbish removal and water. The only other cost is for the propane for hot water and cooking. A fifty pound tank of propane is $2.25 delivered. The cost of renting a house depends on location and whether it is furnished or not. The best way to find them is by word of mouth. I have heard of houses renting from $300 a month and up.
Visas: When you go to Ecuador you get a stamp that's good for three months and you can renew that for another three. When you decide to stay longer a different visa is needed and you must apply for it. That would be done in your local Ecuadorean embassy. Yes there is one in San Jose in the vicinity of the US Embassy. It can also be applied for in Ecuador and is necessary for the residency process. The visa application costs $340 at this time for a couple. There is a list of documents needed and that can be found at some other time. Word has it and I have not confirmed it, that the whole residency process can be done in Ecuador, in fact in Cuenca. A lawyer to assist in the residency process and that of course is recommended costs about $800 per person. I have conflicting info on where this all can be done and others have told me only in Quito. Once you have your cedula you have all the rights of an Ecuadorian except the right to run for office. Yes you can vote. Your first cedula is good for twelve years.
At this point I expect you have nodded off. Before you start reading again or decide to shut it down, make sure you wipe the drool off the key pad or you might short out the laptop.
Medical Insurance: Ecuador has socialized medicine and it works pretty much like Costa Rica. Many of the expats have private insurance. One of the most popular carriers is Nova/Humana, Novacare of Ecuador. An example of one of the policies is $86 a month for a couple and it pays 70% of the office visit, 70 to 90% of prescriptions and 80% of hospitalization. That amount may not be for people my age, it may be more... There are three major private hospitals in Cuenca that are supposed to be very good with lots of English and US trained doctors. None excepts Medicare. Just like Costa Rica you can get pretty much any drug over the counter. The exceptions are blood pressure pills, antidepressants and antibiotics. You can call and get an appointment with a private doctor the same day and they also make housecalls. Office visits are $40. Lots of free clinics with the same advantages and disadvantages found in any socialized medical system. I've managed to get a list of doctors with good reps in lots of the specialties. Cotacachi has a clinic and a couple of private doctors.
I know this is long, but maybe a few are interested. It was important to me so I wanted to share.
Cell phones: Movistar and Claro are the companies with Claro being the one with the most coverage. They have a strange way of selling minutes. Put $3.00 worth of minutes and it's good for a week and you'll lose it if you don't use them. Put $6.00 and it will last a month. Magic Jack and Skype are the prefered contacts with international calls. There are no longer any land lines available and if you get lucky the place you rent will have one. I don't use a land line.
Temperatures: Cotacachi and Cuenca have pretty much the same climate and temperatures. The average is 55 to 72 degrees and only very occasionally does it get colder although it does happen. Some of the expats I talked to have space heaters just in case. I'm here now during the rainy season and I've worn my light jacket every day. Maybe someday I'll have a leather jacket and just might wear it on warm days because I expect I'll look fabulous... Everyone says to bring down comforters because they cost three times more here.
Cars: To bring a car into the country it has to be brand new. The taxes on it will be 52% of the cost. The container for shipping it here could be as high as $12,000. A taxi is $1 to $3.
Seasons: Ecuadorians consider November through March as summer and winter is June through September. April is the wettest month.
Shipping companies: If you are taking all your worldly possessions with you, everyone recommends Relocations Services of Ecuador. People have paid anywhere from $10,000 to $20,000 to ship their goods from the US. There are horror stories regarding shipping here too. I have not been able to get specific info on shipping from Costa Rica other than they will do it.
Volunteer work: There are a couple of opportunities in Cotacachi. Many in Cuenca. In fact, the expat community has a benevolent association that keeps up with the needs of the community and who needs volunteers.
Pets: Lots of expats have brought pets with them. There are some requirements but I forgot to ask. I'm sure we'll be able to find them on the internet. Chihuahuas are not allowed except as a food source for larger dogs.
Altitude sickness: I think I experienced it today. I can't explain how I feel except to blame the altitude. I don't know why it took two weeks for it to show up. I broke out the tea Loretta gave me and I'm taking it intravenously. Both Cot. and Cuen. are at 8,000 feet.
Ok, that's enough. Maybe I'll add more some other time and if anyone has a specific question send it to me and I'll hunt up an answer or I'll just fake it. I can't wait to tell you the story of the Mom and Daughter from Maryland and their fiasco buying land.
