Sunday, April 6, 2014

Short Timer!  


Sunday and I'm thinking about packing.  I don't hit the tarmac till Wednesday, but hey, I'm ready.  We all know it's nice to travel and see new lands and meet new people and cultures, but I know there's a pillow just over there on the side of a beautiful volcano that still holds the impression of my tired head.  I long for my own bed, my shower, my kitchen, my lousy cooking my Recliner!  It is time to be home.

I'm in Ecuador with the thought of possibly moving here.  There are lots of considerations before a decision like that can be made.  I've been through the process before when deciding to move to Costa Rica or not.  Needless to say that decision was made and I have never regretted it for a moment.  Why do it again?

Here are the things I have to consider and compare to Costa Rica my home.

* Cost of Living:  A couple can live a comfortable lifestyle in Cotacachi for $1,500 a month including rent payments.  It's pretty much impossible in Costa Rica now unless one chooses to live a stoic lifestyle.

* Climate:  Cotacachi is cooler than I am used to.  Daily temps are consistently 60 to 70 degrees and can go lower once in a while.  All my comparisons to Costa Rica are based on where I live in San Isidro de Grecia at about 4,000 feet altitude.  There temps run 68 to 78 pretty much every day all year.  Both have rainy seasons that last seven months or so.

*  Altitude:  Cotacachi is in the Andes mountains at about 8,000 feet.  I was not affected by the altitude.  My home in CR is at 4,000 feet.

*  Infrastructure:  Both Ecuador and Costa Rica are developing countries.  Not third world by a long shot.  Cotacachi's infrastructure seems somewhat better than Grecia.  The roads are well maintained, electrical improvements are continuing including an effort to put all electric lines under ground.  Water is not as good by a long shot as in Grecia and I'm a victim of it.

* Availability:  First world conveniences are about forty minutes away by bus.  Cotacachi has the bare essentials other than their specialty trade in leather.

* Other Expats:  Some of us need contact with the familiar even if we choose to live in the midst of a different culture.  Over the past five years or so the expat community has grown from a dozen to hundreds.  Some live in gated communities others choose to live amongst the Ecuadoreans either owning a home near the residents or renting a home or apartment near or in town.  New western style housing is under construction in and around the town in anticipation of many more expats arriving.

* Accessibility:  Cotacachi is connected to the capitol of Quito by a well maintained highway and is 1 1/2 hours away by taxi.  A taxi to the airport is about $40.

* Health Care:  Besides the nationally run socialized medical program that costs about $80 a month per person and covers everything at no extra cost including prescriptions, glasses and dental care, there are a number of private insurance options that differ in cost and coverage depending on the individuals preferences.  Cotacach has a government operated hospital that is clean and efficient, but any major issue would be referred to the modern facilities in major cities like Quito and Cuenca.

* Crime:  Cotacachi is a small town, smaller than Grecia, and has little crime compared to the bigger cities like Quito and San Jose.  However, both towns of Cotacachi and Grecia have a poor population and the crimes of burglary and theft are increasing with the increase of an expat population.

I just returned from having lunch at my favorite little hole in the wall restaurant that really doesn't have a name.  It's run by a very friendly lady that has been in Ecuador since 1975.  Besides being an encyclopedia of this little country and knowing all the shades of Cotacachi she's a wonderful cook. Her very eclectic place has about five tables, a resident dog named "Gringo" and an atmosphere of being in someones kitchen.  Today I had eggplant parmigiana and chicken cachitorre.  Half of it came home with me for later.  Having been ill for a week, I didn't get to eat at all the places in town, but many have great reputations and a couple are very upscale.  Grecia is so needing of good restaurants I don't want to think about it.

This has been a  good experience filled with enough looking around and getting to know to be able to make a good decision about moving here.  No, I have not made that decision yet.  I have other friends in Grecia that are planning a visit to Ecuador in the next few month and others that recently visited here.  I think after my friends visit to come, we'll all get together and talk about the pros and cons and maybe then I'll decide.  As of now I'm headed home to visit that dent in my pillow, renew my friendships that I have been greatly missing and maybe head to the clear waters of the Caribbean coast to recover from this vacation.

This blog has been fun for me and it has helped me focus on what I am actually doing here.  I'm sorry for the dearth of pictures but I just cannot get them to upload.  There are great videos on Youtube and tons of pictures on the web of Cotacachi and Ecuador in general.  Thanks for visiting my blog and if and when I do make a decision, you'll know as well.  Love you all.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Well I guess it's one form of research...

Note:  If you are not interested in hearing about my hospital visit, skip to the bottom for the Cost of Living section.

I have not eaten one thing in four days.  No it's not because of lent and no I'm not on some fad diet, I just lost my appetite and had a couple of other symptoms I will not describe because it even makes me queasy to write them.

Yesterday I decided to go to the hospital rather than doctor myself with my own ideas and the suggestions of everyone else in the b and b.  Took a dollar cab ride to the local Cotacachi Hospital, a socialized medicine establishment and walked in the front door.  There, sitting and standing in line had to be sixty to seventy people, all standing about waist high to me, and all waiting for their respective specialist.  Of course having had experience with this in Costa Rica I was not surprised and gave my little Kindle a loving squeeze.

I walked over to the info both to ask where to register and the nice lady asked what was wrong.  I gave her a brief description and she said I belonged in the emergency room.  Ok, off I go.  I walked in and a young nurse greeted me and asked the same question.  After giving her a better description she immediately led me into one of the many exam rooms.  Within five minutes a doctor, a very pretty, young doctor came in.  She spoke perfect English which made things much easier for me.  It took her no time to diagnose "Traveler's Diarrhea".

Within the next ten minutes I was hooked to an IV, covered with a nice sheet and told to rest for a half hour. 
My doctor explained that this is a very common occurrence for gringos and it's a result of bad water.  She stated that Ecuador has bad water and tourists have not produced the antibodies to combat it.  I explained that I had not had any water other than bottled having read about the bad water.  She stated that even one ice cube or a glass of juice made with bad water would do me in.  Yup, ice and juice had passed my lips.

Along with the IV I had to drink lots of water containing all those things the body needs that I had not received in four days.  When done I was sent home with some meds and a couple of more pack of the electrolytes mix to be used for the next few days.  They took my passport info and said my visit and supplies were free.  Even after eight years of almost cost free care by my clinics and hospitals in Costa Rica it startled me because I am a tourist expecting to pay. 

I'm far from feeling back to my usual eater status, but I have had a couple of bananas today that have decided to stay with me for a while.  All this in the name of research.  I'm sure my friends appreciate me sacrificing my body to the cause.

Now some really good stuff...  Cost of living is a major consideration for moving anywhere.  There are so many variables and things change so quickly it's hard to get a handle on them.  Costa Rica's has increased considerably since I moved there and all of my friends are also feeling the pinch.   A major goal here was to get a true handle on costs rather than count on or believe the Internet sites and the various blogs about Ecuador.  So here's a synopsis of costs averaged from lots of gringos living in Cotacachi, Otavallo,  Ibarra and Cuenca.  Cuenca is actually a little cheaper than elsewhere, but I've averaged for the sake of ease.  All amounts are for one month's expenses. ( sorry, but I couldn't get the columns to cooperate)

Rent:  Three and four bedrooms, furnished and nearby town                 $600
Water:                                                                                                            7
Electricity:                                                                                                   45
Gas (propane)                                                                                                8
Telephone:                                                                                                   10
Direct  TV:                                                                                                   75
Internet:                                                                                                        33         Groceries:                                                                                                   400
Transportation: (buses and taxis)                                                                 40

Entertainment:                                                                                            250
Health Plan: (Caja per person)                                                                     80
Miscellaneous:                                                                                            250

MONTHLY TOTAL:                                                                            $1,798
  
As you are well aware, every one's lifestyle is different and the total could fluctuate considerably.  Buying or building your own home and buying and maintaining a car and having private health insurance are examples that would skew the total.  Living near town or away from town would also affect these costs, especially rent.

Ok, just a week left in the big adventure in little Ecuador.  I am ready to be home in the warmth of my own place and wrapped in the hugs of all my friends.                     

Sunday, March 30, 2014

My homework is pretty much done.

This entry is not going to be very entertaining, but it will be loaded with information for my friends who are considering a move to Ecuador.  Yes I have been a happy tourist while here, but I've done my research as well.  I was tasked to find out all the particulars about this little happy country, the good and the bad if one was to move their home here.  Here it comes boys and girls and just know that this is from the viewpoint of yours truly who does not put complete faith in most of what I do.

My time here has been spent mostly in a little town called Cotacachi.  Sweet quiet town in a valley in the Andes consisting of about 9,000 people and 300 or so expats.  Pretty good selection of anything you might need, but not much of what you might crave.  There are a surprising number of pleasant restaurants for the size and bustle of the town, but that's it.  Cotacachi could be one of those movie towns where the bad guys ride up the main street and all the inhabitants are behind there closed doors.  In that movie, the good guys show up and it's gunfight at OK Corral.  Well here, the bad guys just keep on riding through.

The past couple or three days I've been in Cuenca.  A short plane ride from Cotacachi, but a world away.  Cuenca is roughly at the same altitude as Cotacachi, but that's where the similarities end.  460,000 people and 3,000 expats do make this a bustling city but none of the ugly you'd associate with a big city.  The place reminds so much of the towns in Italy that I visited with my son and his wife a few years ago.  It has that same old world charm.

I found it a delightful city, full of very friendly Ecuadorians and happy, helpful, welcoming expats.  The surrounding areas of the city are nicely developed with homes and apartments and condos and putting them there, they have protected the nature of the city.  I believe if I were to relocate to Ecuador it would be in the vicinity of Cuenca.

Now comes the good part.  The following is what I've gathered over the last two weeks.  I've tried to break it down into sections.  Needless to say this is an unscientific research so don't let me ever hear anyone say "well Joe said"  when they discover it may be somewhat different.

Culture:  Made up of the indigenous people who wear the colorful velvet skirts and Panama hats, descendants of the Spaniards who are responsible for the beautiful churches, a mix of the two and then a mixture of the rest of the world.  Ecuador is a developing country.

Driving:  Very much similar to Italy and Costa Rica.  It's like entering a different personality when the Ecuadorian slides behind the wheel.  That slow, easy pace suddenly steps on the accelerator and doesn't take it's foot off no matter what.  Pedestrians don't have the right of way here either.  Yes there are motor cycles, but they seem to obey the laws or are also afraid of the looming cars, trucks and buses.  75% of the expats do not have their own vehicle electing instead to use the excellent transportation system.  Buses and taxis are well maintained and very cheap.  Bus rides cost pennies and you can't pay more than $2.00 anywhere you go in the city.

Cleanliness:  Cleaner than Grecia!  Grecia known as the cleanest city in Central America loses to Cuenca and Cotacachi.  It isn't a matter of how efficient the cleaning crews are, it's more the attitude of the population.  They just don't drop anything on the ground.

Business hours:  They take a two hour siesta here.  Just not fair.  Most places open at 8:30, but it is possible to find that early morning coffee.

Food:  I think I ate in pretty much every restaurant in Cotacachi and a few of their little kiosks.  I was amazed at the variety of restaurants in Cuenca.  Please note that Cuenca is not another Escazu, Costa Rica.  No one is trying to turn downtown into another USA main street.  However, from German bakeries, darn good steaks,  fast food places and good old mom and pop shops serving simple hardy food.  There are a number of big grocery stores in Cuenca as opposed to the two little ones in Cotacachi.  None of the stores looked like they catered to gringos, but they had excellent selections of non perishables and meat and fish.  I did not see a stand alone butcher shop.  The diet here is really high in carbs, the people favoring potatoes, cheese and corn.  Cheesy potato cakes are great.

Climate:  The climate of Cotacachi and Cuenca are very similar due to both being in valley at about 8,000 feet.  I am visiting here in their rainy season.  Warm sunshine in the morning, clouding up by noon and raining for an hour or two in the afternoon and then pretty cool in the late evening and night.  I have worn a light jacket every day.  One expat told me it can go as low as 40 degrees, but she has only seen that three times in the six years she's been living in Cuenca.

Stuff to do:  Cotacachi has its big beautiful church and central park, its amazing five block long "Leather Street" which is world famous for its leather goods.  I have fallen in love with leather since visiting and I will have a leather jacket if I move here.  This street alone will cause the shopping woman cramps of craving.  Lots of other things to see, but they are reached by bus, car or tour van.  Cuenca has amazing restaurants, museums, concerts  (mostly free), symphony (also free), many fantastic churches all in the European tradition, and double decker buses with their wide open second level.  That bus is a hoot.  There are more than a couple of malls as well.  The expats schedule a lot of activities as well.

Money:  They use the American Dollar in Ecuador.  It was a little weird using that old currency and a bit different.  A dollar coin is used a lot and there is a big fifty cent coin.  If you are bringing cash with you, which I advise, bring lots of ones, fives and tens.  Even the tens are difficult to use, no one has enough change.  There are rumors that Ecuador will go to a different currency.  Rumors.  Also rumors of Ecuador reducing the imports from the US.

Political Climate:  How do you forecast what the political future holds for Ecuador or for any other country?  These are difficult times worldwide.  President Correa has done an enormous amount of good for the country.  Both the locals and the expats are very positive about him with only a few unhappy.  He is working hard for the welfare of the people. 

Housing:  There are so many options for housing.  Even in little Cotacachi there are apartment houses and casitas and farms all available for rent or to buy.  I saw a beautiful apartment, secure, two bedroom, with a beautiful sun room and large living room with a very modern and functionable kitchen.  All furnished with up scale furniture and appliances.  $600 a month including fast internet, cable tv, rubbish removal and water.  The only other cost is for the propane for hot water and cooking.  A fifty pound tank of propane is $2.25 delivered.  The cost of renting a house depends on location and whether it is furnished or not.  The best way to find them is by word of mouth.  I have heard of houses renting from $300 a month and up.

Visas:  When you go to Ecuador you get a stamp that's good for three months and you can renew that for another three.  When you decide to stay longer a different visa is needed and you must apply for it.  That would be done in your local Ecuadorean embassy.  Yes there is one in San Jose in the vicinity of the US Embassy.  It can also be applied for in Ecuador and is necessary for the residency process.  The visa application costs $340 at this time for a couple.  There is a list of documents needed and that can be found at some other time.  Word has it and I have not confirmed it, that the whole residency process can be done in Ecuador, in fact in Cuenca.  A lawyer to assist in the residency process and that of course is recommended costs about $800 per person.  I have conflicting info on where this all can be done and others have told me only in Quito.  Once you have your cedula you have all the rights of an Ecuadorian except the right to run for office.  Yes you can vote.  Your first cedula is good for twelve years.

At this point I expect you have nodded off.  Before you start reading again or decide to shut it down, make sure you wipe the drool off the key pad or you might short out the laptop.

Medical Insurance:  Ecuador has socialized medicine and it works pretty much like Costa Rica.  Many of the expats have private insurance.  One of the most popular carriers is Nova/Humana, Novacare of Ecuador.  An example of one of the policies is $86 a month for a couple and it pays 70% of the office visit, 70 to 90% of prescriptions and 80% of hospitalization.   That amount may not be for people my age, it may be more...  There are three major private hospitals in Cuenca that are supposed to be very good with lots of English and US trained doctors. None excepts Medicare.  Just like Costa Rica you can get pretty much any drug over the counter.  The exceptions are blood pressure pills, antidepressants and antibiotics.  You can call and get an appointment with a private doctor the same day and they also make housecalls.  Office visits are $40.  Lots of free clinics with the same advantages and disadvantages found in any socialized medical system.  I've managed to get a list of doctors with good reps in lots of the specialties.  Cotacachi has a clinic and a couple of private doctors.

I know this  is long, but maybe a few are interested.  It was important to me so I wanted to share.

Cell phones:  Movistar and Claro are the companies with Claro being the one with the most coverage.  They have a strange way of selling minutes.  Put $3.00 worth of minutes and it's good for a week and you'll lose it if you don't use them.  Put $6.00 and it will last a month.  Magic Jack and Skype are the prefered contacts with international calls.  There are no longer any land lines available and if you get lucky the place you rent will have one.  I don't use a land line.

Temperatures:  Cotacachi and Cuenca have pretty much the same climate and temperatures.  The average is 55 to 72 degrees and only very occasionally does it get colder although it does happen.  Some of the expats I talked to have space heaters just in case.  I'm here now during the rainy season and I've worn my light jacket every day.  Maybe someday I'll have a leather jacket and just might wear it on warm days because I expect I'll look fabulous...  Everyone says to bring down comforters because they cost three times more here.

Cars:  To bring a car into the country it has to be brand new.  The taxes on it will be 52% of the cost.  The container for shipping it here could be as high as $12,000.  A taxi is $1 to $3.

Seasons:  Ecuadorians consider November through March as summer and winter is June through September.  April is the wettest month.

Shipping companies:  If you are taking all your worldly possessions with you, everyone recommends Relocations Services of Ecuador.  People have paid anywhere from $10,000 to $20,000 to ship their goods from the US.  There are horror stories regarding shipping here too. I have not been able to get specific info on shipping from Costa Rica other than they will do it.

Volunteer work:  There are a couple of opportunities in Cotacachi.  Many in Cuenca.  In fact, the expat community has a benevolent association that keeps up with the needs of the community and who needs volunteers.

Pets:  Lots of expats have brought pets with them.  There are some requirements but I forgot to ask.  I'm sure we'll be able to find them on the internet.  Chihuahuas are not allowed except as a food source for larger dogs.

Altitude sickness:  I think I experienced it today.  I can't explain how I feel except to blame the altitude.  I don't know why it took  two weeks for it to show up.  I broke out the tea Loretta gave me and I'm taking it intravenously.  Both Cot. and Cuen. are at 8,000 feet.

Ok, that's enough.  Maybe I'll add more some other time and if anyone has a specific question send it to me and I'll hunt up an answer or I'll just fake it.  I can't wait to tell you the story of the Mom and Daughter from Maryland and their fiasco buying land.

Monday, March 24, 2014



It does not taste like Chicken!  I'm sure you, just like me, have had those amazing food moments which you'll never forget.  To give you some examples of mine:  Gram's braciola, fried clams at Essex Clam Shack, conch salad in Hong Kong,  Mom's cheese cake, leeche nuts on a train in China, medium rare steak and sticky buns at Hill Top Steak House, Saugus, Ma.  I'll stop there so as not to bore you totally.  Yesterday will stand out as another of those gastronomical moments.  Not because of the elegant surroundings, not because of being surrounded by good friends, not because Mom and Gram's food was always amazing, but because I ate something for the first time in my life that I never dreamed of eating.
 
CuiCui in Otavalo, Ecuador!  Just on the edge of this amazing outdoor market, which I'll get to in a bit, there are the myriad of food vendors.   Now I had a heads up on this food from friends that had recently been here but were reluctant to try it.  Well, not me.  If I'm going to die from eating some exotic food like bangers and mash or lengua, I'm going to do it in some exotic place.  Why not in the midst of thousands of people shopping for goods on the equator? 
I know many of you have already eaten CuiCui, but not me.  Yesterday I ate guinea pig!!!  You bet.  The same little critter that I sold hundreds of in my pet shop ended up on a spit and roasted up to a golden and blackened snack for lunch.  Not chicken, it tastes more like rabbit.  The skin was crunchy with a bit of fat and the meat was tender and tasty. 
 I have to admit it took me a while to suck up the courage to buy the little roasted critter and a little more time finding a hiding spot to eat it.  I didn't want to be too obvious if ugly things resulted from my first bite.  What a kick!  How much you ask, $2.25 including boiled potato, salad and a cup of coke.  Not bad for a new mental milestone.
 
The "Ponchos" market, acres of tarp covered stalls, all chocked full of artisans wares was a site to behold and an adventure to walk through.  No, not a yard sale kind of thing, these were magnificent woven products of everything imaginable.  The most amazing to me were the vibrant colored throws and blankets and ponchos and skirts all of intricate woven threads most of Alpaca and Llama.  Jewelry and indigenous sculptings and even the most elaborate carved guitars. 
 
 
Many, many tourists, all touching and bargaining and buying.  I noted all the bags and there was some serious shopping going on.  This was just the main market.  On Saturday and Sunday even more vendors come with their homemade arts and fill all the side streets as well.  No, I couldn't walk it all.  Finally, worn out, I stopped at a little pie shop, right there on the sidewalk beside all this hustle and had a piece of coconut cream pie.  How about that?  Guinea Pig for lunch chased by heavenly pie. 
 
Time to head back to the old b and b by bus, twenty minutes and $0.25  This is a tourist kind of day, not the living in Ecuador kind of day that I've mainly been doing.  It was fun being a tourist.
 
Two cute stories from my bus rides.  There was a little Ecuadorean lady sitting beside me and she fell asleep.  A fellow walks down the aisle to collect the fee after everyone is seated.  When he got to me rather than wake the lady, I paid her twenty-five cents.  When she awoke and found out that I had paid for her she wouldn't stop hugging me.  You know how good I felt for twenty-five cents?  On the return trip that day a little boy about six years old sat beside me.  Every Ecuadorean lady that walked by us heading for their seat said how cute we were.  One actually said the kid looked like me!  Take a look at any Ecuadorean kid and tell me if there is the slightest resemblance.
 
Things that I found out:
- there are rumors among the expats that Ecuador is separating itself from the USA.
- Rumor:  limiting imports from the USA
- Rumor:  changing from the US dollar to a different currency.
- had to buy lip cream for my lips which have been going dry while sleeping.
- I'm in my second week of research.
- I miss my friends
 
Ecuador as of today:  8/10
 
For those who might like to try it here's a special bonus:
 

A typical recipe for baked or barbequed cuy with a hot sauce: 
• 3 or 4 cuy 
• 50 grams of ground toasted corn, or cornmeal 
• 2 kilos of parboiled potatoes, cut in slices 
• 8 cloves of garlic 
• 6 fresh hot peppers, either red or yellow 
• ½ cup oil 
• ½ cup water 
• salt, pepper and cumin to taste 
Rub the cuys with a mix of the pepper, salt, pepper and cumin and bake. You can also skewer over a barbeque.
 
Prepare a sauce with the oil, peppers, garlic and 
cornmeal with the water from the potatoes or broth. Cook a few minutes until the peppers are cooked. When tender, place the meat in a serving dish and spoon the sauce over it. Serve with the boiled potatoes.


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Sunday, March 23, 2014

But the old guy can dance! 

Ok, can't wait anymore.  I've been trying to upload pics and videos, but the signal is just bad.  Doesn't look like I can find a better one either.

March 20, cloudy, cool and it finds me more in a mood to add to my blog than traipsing around town.  I owe myself a respite after really outdoing myself yesterday.  The feast of St. Joseph's found me taking a great adventure riding a train through the Andes to a little town called Selinas.

It started inocently enough with a $0.35 bus ride to Ibarra, about a half hour from "home".  Then a $1 cab ride to the train station.  I was told I had to make a reservation and didn't expect to travel yesterday.  When I asked for a reservation at the ticket desk the little lady asked, "Hoy?".  Well sure, why not?  $20 round trip ticket but because I'm old I received a discount of $10.  Huh!

The regular train was down for maintenance so a "trolley" was my iron horse for the day.

 There were 20 of us or so which gave me the chance to move around to any of the glassless windows for viewing and pictures.  We traveled at about 20 mph so it was easy to move around.  Holy smoke!  Riding on the edge of the Andes, overlooking bottomless ravines and into immense valleys, slipping through long black tunnels and over really rickety tressles I don't know how high up, it was a real kick.  The following video shows a great shot of the bridge we were about to cross.

After 2.5 hours we arrived at the very tiny town of Salinas.  It has a Negro history and the people there are much darker than others in Ecuador.  We were greeted by a number of pretty ladies all decked out in traditional garb and they danced their traditional "Bomba".  After a couple of dances they grabbed the hands of a number of tourists and dragged them up to join the dance.  Oh yeah,  I was one of them.  For twenty minutes yours truly did the white man's version of the "Bomba".  Hey, this old man can dance.  No videos of me dancing, sadly...  However here are the young ladies strutting and some of the real Ecuadoreans.
 
We went on a walking tour of the town and a visit to their museum.  This town is hundreds of years old and as I said it has a Black history.  Guess whose picture is hung prominently...

After a soup and porkchop lunch it was off on the return trip.  Such a great experience.  Hopped a cab and a bus and arrived back home after an eight hour day.  Well spent.

Stopped at my gellato spot and the owner gave me a beautiful book of a guide to the traditional parishes of Quito.  I told you how friendly these Ecuadorean people are.

What I have learned:

- Met several people living here and scooped their email adresses for future resourcing.
- Streets are all named and houses have numbers.  Don't think they deliver mail though.
- Hooked up with an immigration guy who also manages shipping containers.
- Solid Rock Restaurant is the Gringo hangout similar to Grecia's and the best thing is they use real blueberries in their pancakes.
- Blueberries grow in abundance in the mountains and they are all organic and found in the markets.
- I did find a gringo that knows it all, will tell you it all, made and lost fortunes, fought in VN and has PTSD and blames everybody for it.  He tried to advise me on investing money, finding women, buying silver and building condos.  Cheesh, sometimes I wonder if I have a target on my back.  He's the only one though and everyone else I've met could be good friends.
-Only really good art supplies store is in Quito, many hours away.
-Chuck and Gayle, a couple I met a few times and who were staying in my b and b left for home yesterday and gave me a lasoo for my camera so I can hang it around my neck and a bunch of handy things like clothes pins and clothes line.  See, most of the ones I've met are amazingly nice.
-I'm really missing my friends in Grecia

Cotacachi as of today:   8 out of 10

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

8,000+ feet

It didn't occur to me till yesterday that I settled in to a little town that sits at better than 8,000 feet altitude.  All the reading I had done and the chats I've had with friends who have been here to Cotacachi cautioned about the possible effects of the high altitude.  I was prepared for the worst having bags of tea available that were given to me specifically for treating altitude sickness and also armed with the name of a medication that would make it all better.  Having walked this town extensively now, spending many hours touring, I realized this morning that being way up high in the Andes has had no effect on me.  None.  Then again my appetite is way off.  Don't think it's because of the altitude.

We are in the middle of the cool season here which goes from December to April.  It's jacket weather.  68 degrees for the high daytime and in the 50s at night.  I don't think it's too cool for my friend Gloria.  If it is, there's tons of beautiful jackets and sweaters and gloves and anything else that might help.  This really is a shoppers heaven and I think one day I may sport a leather jacket.  They have my size!

I've met a number of Gringos, all friendly and helpful, but yesterday was a banner day.  Dennis and Priscilla live here and own an apartment and also one for rent.  These folks are from North Kingston, Rhode Island.  How cool is that?  They took me on an insider's tour of the town and then asked me over to their apt. complex.  I could live there today, it's that nice.  They live on the fourth floor and have a beautiful place with a rooftop patio overlooking two volcanoes and the town.

However, apt. number two on the second floor is even nicer.  Two bedroom, big airy living room, granite top counter and island, great appliances and all furnished with great comfortable furniture.  Best of all it has a big sun room that would be perfect for a painting studio. 
 
The four building complex is very secure, mostly gringos and has spectacular gardens.  It is one  half block from leather street and actually on the edge of town.  Very, very convenient for someone that does not want to own another car.

Went to my favorite breakfast place and encountered the "fly" guy for the second time.  He's my buddy Jimito in another form.  This fellow, Bob, wanders into the restaurant, walks to the back, grabs a fly swatter, walks around and kills a couple of flies and then leaves.  Nope, no breakfast and no hellos to anyone.  Jimito is not the only one in this world that hunts down those little critters.  There are no bugs in Cotacachi.  Only the occasional house fly, but nothing else.  Not an ant, no bees, nothing.  Fewer dogs than in Grecia, but they are common.

Met another couple, from Alabama, and the wife was treated twice here at the hospital and was charged nothing.  They were impressed with the cleanliness and the attentive staff.

Today is an easy day.  I've been walking so much, more than I would in a month, and I'm tired.  I still have a lot to do so I've decided to rest on St. Paddy's Day.  However there are a number of bars having SPD celebrations later today and I'm not against tossing a couple.

What I've learned:
-  Cotacachi is what Grecia probably was fifteen to twenty years ago.
- Not much traffic, regular buses, not many motor cycles.  The picture      
     below is on a Sunday morning at about 8 AM.
- Grocery stores are small, but have all the daily necessities
      Found chicken and hamburg all shrink wrapped in styro containers.


- Major shopping is done in Otavalo, a town that I have not visited as yet.
- People, including construction workers, are very neatly dressed,                
     many in indigenous garb. Yes Jake, cowboy stuff is available too...
 
- The gellato store is going to be a once a day stop.
- Most I've spent on a meal is $6 and that's because I had two batidos.
- It's still weird spending American Dollars.
- My bad Spannish works well in Cotacachi.

Cotacachi as of 3/18:  9 out of 10

Saturday, March 15, 2014

It's twelve hours before leaving Costa Rica for Ecuador and I'm sure I'm not the first to feel the proverbial butterflies about this new adventure.  Didn't sleep last night and I'm not optimistic about tonight.  It's not like I could use a good night's sleep before the trip.

I said my goodbyes with lots of hugs and good wishes and now it's just a matter of passing the time.  Ten o'clock departure with a nine pm arrival and then an hour and a half to Cotacachi and the b and b.  My layover is in Bogata, Columbia.  I don't expect any delays at customs, it's not the US after all.  I also got a haircut from Joyce today and she made me look harmless.  My next entry will be from the middle of the world...

Cruised right on through Bogata and then Quito airports only to have the ride of my life in a taxi.  Traffic laws are nonexistant for taxi drivers in Ecuador also.  Possibly even worse than Costa Rica.  Passing on double yellow lines on curves, racing through redlights and who knows what else went on while I had my eyes shut.  Then again, safe and sound at the
b and b right on time.

Today, Saturday, I have walked a few of the streets of Cotacachi, first to find a coffee and breakfast.  Now that I know nothing opens before 8 am I won't be heading out again at 6 am like I did today.  It is so quiet in town.  Hardly a car and but for an occasional bus, nothing. 

Eventually the kids headed for school, the locals, many dressed in traditional garb, started turning the streets into a busy morning of people going to work.  What beautiful clothing these folk wear. 

Things I learned the first couple of days:
- Avianca gives good flight service
- Avianca's in flight food sucks
- Avianca's movies are free and I finally watched "Gravity" on a teeny  weeny screen.
- There are a lot of very beautiful women in the Bogota, Columbia airport.
- My room is a bit noisy at night (I was greeted at 5:30 this morning by the Costa Rican national anthem being played.  For those not in the know, that's a car alarm playing for an ungodly amount of time.)

- Rubbish trucks play music as they pick up their goods.
- Serendipity is the place for breakfast.
Gloria, the Ecuadorean waitress, is a sweetheart.  Maybe tomorrow I'll have the chocolate chip pancakes.
- Needed a jacket at 6 am and removed it at 8:30 because of a bright and warming sun overhead.
- The enclosed Mercado had outstanding choices of fruit and vegetables.  

 Didn't see any meats.  Don't know yet where that is sold. 
- There's a food court at the Mercado and an example of one of the booths, "La Parrilla", has dishes: hamburger with fries, $2.50, BBQ wings and fries, $2.25, chicken nuggets, $2.00.
- It is very strange using the American Dollar here.  What do I do with these pennies.  Hmmm, use em for tips...

Just had a downpour lasting about 30 minutes.  Sun is back out.  Time to start thinking about lunch.  Walking is tiring.  Solid Rock Cafe dished up a great waffle with bacon.  Yes, that was my lunch. 

Cotacachi as of 3/15   Overall my rating is 8 out of 10.